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Non-White or Non-European Clothing History Resource Books

6/22/2020

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When it comes to clothing/costume history many of us studying in the west tend to skim over non-European and non-white clothing. There may be one special class on Indigenous dress or Saris, or Kimonos, but nothing substantial. Most of my resource books also barely scratch the surface of any other topic than European fashion history. I decided to try to gather books for fellow costume curious people to have a starting point to educate ourselves about these non-white and non-European fashion histories. 
This is in no way the ultimate list. There are so many other books out there and books yet to be published. Use this list as a jumping off point for your own book research and not as the authority on the only books there are. 
I always suggest looking at your local library for these books. If they don't have them ask for them to purchase them. If you choose to purchase them yourselves I would suggest finding small book stores. Literary Hub has a list of Black owned book stores you can check out and order from online! (The Lit Bar in NYC carries many of the books I list below.) 

The Way We Wore: Black Style Then
by: Michael McCollom

The Way We Wore: Black Style Then contains photos from 1940's through 2014 when it was published and includes photos from the collection of the author's family and friends. The forward is written by Geoffrey Holder, the original costume designer of The Wiz on Broadway. Holder was also a director and actor both in theatre and on film. 

"Style for me can be louder than words. It speaks volumes. This was the genesis of the book."-Michael McCollom

An interview from Life and Times by Kathy Iandoli with author Michael McCollom can be found here. 
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New African Fashion 
​by: Helen Jennings

“A refreshing and commendable stab at an extremely broad and underrepresented market.” --Worn Fashion Journal

Jennings is the former editor of ARISE, a fashion magazine focusing on contemporary African fashion and co founder of Nataal, a media brand celebrating contemporary African creativity. 

New African Fashion was published in 2011 and focuses on African fashion designers, fashion lines, photographers, and models. 

Here is a link to a preview of the book on its publisher's site. 

Dandy Lion: The Black Dandy and Street Style
by: Shantrelle P. Lewis

"Described as “high-styled rebels” by author Shantrelle P. Lewis, black men with a penchant for color and refined fashion, both new and vintage, have gained popular attention in recent years, influencing mainstream fashion." -About the book

This coffee table resource book not only has brilliant photography but speaks about dandyism, street style, hip hop, fashion as rebellion, etc. 


Here is an interview from Cool Hunting (by Katie Olsen) with author Shantrelle P. Lewis.
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The African Lookbook: A Visual History of 100 Years of African Women
by: Catherine E. McKinley

This book is set to publish in early 2021 and contains photos gathered by McKinley from many different African countries. 

McKinley has also written:
  • Indigo: In Search of the Color That Seduced the World
  • The Book of Sarahs: A Family in Parts
She also curated Aunty! (with Laylah Amatullah Barrayn)  at United Photo Industries Gallery in Brooklyn in 2018. 
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Read a NY Times article about it here. 

More Books

  • Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity'-by Monica L. Miller
  • Supreme Models: Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion- by Marcellas Reynolds
  • Fashion History: A Global View- by Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun
  • The Social Life of Kimono: Japanese Fashion Past and Present- by Sheila Cliffe
  • How to Slay- by Constance C.R. White
  • Unseen: Unpublished Black History from the New York Times Photo Archives- by Dana Canedy, Darcy Eveleigh, Damien Cave, and Rachel L. Swarns
  • Costume and Fashion: A Concise History- by James Laver
  • Crowns: Portraits of Black Women in Church Hats- by Michael Cunningham and Craig Marberry
  • Native American Clothing: An Illustrated History- by Theodore Brasser
  • Caribou Skin Clothing of the Igloolik Inuit- by Sylvie Pharand




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What Does Streaming "Live" Theatre Mean for Those in the Industry?

6/1/2020

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After the news broke that Broadway was not opening any theatre's doors until at least Labor Day and the growing number of plays and musicals being streamed on various sites, I started thinking about what that meant for my industry.  

Releasing filmed theatre is an idea many have had. For example, 'Hamilton' is going to be streamed on Disney Plus come this July. Although this was already planned and in the works before quarantine many other productions have warmed up to the idea; hosting recordings of their past performances on various sites or rushing to film a current show not yet opened. As a consumer I am excited to have new content to watch, but as a professional in the industry I have a few questions. Are those working behind the scenes, the wardrobe, stage technicians, etc. being paid residuals? Are the actors? Can those filming during quarantine keep safe social distance? Finally, what does this filming mean for theatre once things get "back to normal"?

I have a few friends in the industry and Actor's Equity, so I sent out a quick text to them to see what they thought about streaming theatre. The overall consensus was that we were all happy that streaming agreements were something being discussed by our industry. Streaming is new and there are so many different opinions on what is best for those working in theatre in regards to agreements and working on a filmed theatre show. Another question we were all interested to hear discussed: "when does the filming and streaming of theatre become film"? I am looking forward to hearing more from the different theatre unions and others in the industry about this new frontier in theatre. 
Reference:
-Curtains for Broadway: No Shows Til Labor Day, at Least- NY TIMES
-'Hamilton' movie will stream on Disney Plus on July 3 - NY TIMES
-How the Entertainment Industry is Dealing with Coronavirus  -Backstage
-How to Support a Theatre Company and Stream a Show While Social Distancing -Playbill
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