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Non-White or Non-European Clothing History Resource Books

6/22/2020

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When it comes to clothing/costume history many of us studying in the west tend to skim over non-European and non-white clothing. There may be one special class on Indigenous dress or Saris, or Kimonos, but nothing substantial. Most of my resource books also barely scratch the surface of any other topic than European fashion history. I decided to try to gather books for fellow costume curious people to have a starting point to educate ourselves about these non-white and non-European fashion histories. 
This is in no way the ultimate list. There are so many other books out there and books yet to be published. Use this list as a jumping off point for your own book research and not as the authority on the only books there are. 
I always suggest looking at your local library for these books. If they don't have them ask for them to purchase them. If you choose to purchase them yourselves I would suggest finding small book stores. Literary Hub has a list of Black owned book stores you can check out and order from online! (The Lit Bar in NYC carries many of the books I list below.) 

The Way We Wore: Black Style Then
by: Michael McCollom

The Way We Wore: Black Style Then contains photos from 1940's through 2014 when it was published and includes photos from the collection of the author's family and friends. The forward is written by Geoffrey Holder, the original costume designer of The Wiz on Broadway. Holder was also a director and actor both in theatre and on film. 

"Style for me can be louder than words. It speaks volumes. This was the genesis of the book."-Michael McCollom

An interview from Life and Times by Kathy Iandoli with author Michael McCollom can be found here. 
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New African Fashion 
​by: Helen Jennings

“A refreshing and commendable stab at an extremely broad and underrepresented market.” --Worn Fashion Journal

Jennings is the former editor of ARISE, a fashion magazine focusing on contemporary African fashion and co founder of Nataal, a media brand celebrating contemporary African creativity. 

New African Fashion was published in 2011 and focuses on African fashion designers, fashion lines, photographers, and models. 

Here is a link to a preview of the book on its publisher's site. 

Dandy Lion: The Black Dandy and Street Style
by: Shantrelle P. Lewis

"Described as “high-styled rebels” by author Shantrelle P. Lewis, black men with a penchant for color and refined fashion, both new and vintage, have gained popular attention in recent years, influencing mainstream fashion." -About the book

This coffee table resource book not only has brilliant photography but speaks about dandyism, street style, hip hop, fashion as rebellion, etc. 


Here is an interview from Cool Hunting (by Katie Olsen) with author Shantrelle P. Lewis.
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The African Lookbook: A Visual History of 100 Years of African Women
by: Catherine E. McKinley

This book is set to publish in early 2021 and contains photos gathered by McKinley from many different African countries. 

McKinley has also written:
  • Indigo: In Search of the Color That Seduced the World
  • The Book of Sarahs: A Family in Parts
She also curated Aunty! (with Laylah Amatullah Barrayn)  at United Photo Industries Gallery in Brooklyn in 2018. 
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Read a NY Times article about it here. 

More Books

  • Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity'-by Monica L. Miller
  • Supreme Models: Iconic Black Women Who Revolutionized Fashion- by Marcellas Reynolds
  • Fashion History: A Global View- by Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun
  • The Social Life of Kimono: Japanese Fashion Past and Present- by Sheila Cliffe
  • How to Slay- by Constance C.R. White
  • Unseen: Unpublished Black History from the New York Times Photo Archives- by Dana Canedy, Darcy Eveleigh, Damien Cave, and Rachel L. Swarns
  • Costume and Fashion: A Concise History- by James Laver
  • Crowns: Portraits of Black Women in Church Hats- by Michael Cunningham and Craig Marberry
  • Native American Clothing: An Illustrated History- by Theodore Brasser
  • Caribou Skin Clothing of the Igloolik Inuit- by Sylvie Pharand




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Plague Doctors-Curious Fashion History

5/18/2020

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When one thinks of a doctor today, a picture of a person in scrubs, maybe with a white lab coat or disposable gloves on with a tie on mask may come to mind. Most would not instantly think of a figure covered in a long robe or coat with a bird head. But, during the 1600s some in Europe would describe doctors just like that; figures covered from head to toe in long robes with a beaked mask. 
When the Great Plague swept through London doctors needed a way to protect themselves when making house calls. Many chose the uniform credited to Charles de Lorme, a French doctor. De Lorme's uniform included a wax covered coat, trousers connected to boots, hat, gloves, and a beaked mask. Most of the costume was to be make out of leather with none of the wearer's skin showing least his pores soak up the "miasma". 
Sicknesses, especially the Black Death, Plague, Great Plague, etc. were thought to be caused by bad air or "miasma" so the beaked mask carried sweet or strong scented herbs and the waxed coat often was infused with a scent as well. These measures were thought to protect the doctor as he treated his patients, although no firm scientific proof was available. Ultimately their outfits did little to protect them. 
The visual of the "plague doctor" is so iconic that many different societies have used the shape and symbol. In Italy the long shape of the beaked mask became popular in commedia dell'arte performances as well as at carnival celebrations. The costume was rightly so associated with death, forever tying it to horror movies and video games.
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Image of plague doctor uniform from the Wellcome Collection, London.
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Incarnation of the plague doctor imagined by the creators of popular video game Fortnite.
Plague doctors were as ineffective as the protective suits they wore. Bad air was not the cause of sickness; poor hygiene and lack of sanitation spread the disease. Some historians even doubt if they wore these uniforms at all. There is evidence of satirical cartoons, masks themselves, and the writings of some doctors, but many believe even if they were worn, they may have only been worn in Italy, France, and England. 
References:
Wellcome Collection-Deadly Stinks and Life Saving Aromas in Plague Stricken London
How Stuff Works-17th C. Plague Doctors Were the Stuff of Nightmares
​National Geographic-Why Plague Doctors Wore Those Strange Beaked Masks
The Timetables of History by Bernard Grun
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How Illnesses Affected Fashion

5/4/2020

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I am currently home in my comfy clothes writing this article as the TV show I was working on has been paused due to COVID-19. While sitting at home I was wondering what this pause would mean for costumes, clothing, and fashion, and what other viruses and illnesses have done to affect fashion throughout history. (Fitting no?)

Smallpox

Smallpox has been around since the 6th century according to the CDC. It is identified by the flat rash it spreads on the skin. It usually starts near the mouth and as it spreads it turns into very unpleasant filled bumps. It usually leaves those infected with pitted scars where the bumps used to be. 
​During the 1600s small decorative patches made out of silk, leather, or cotton were plastered to the face to "hide" imperfections, especially pockmarks. Many women and men kept these patches or "beauty marks" in small decorative boxes to then be attached to their faces with a form of glue. This fashion trend started in France but took hold in other European countries. Although "beauty marks" were great to cover up small scars and marks, you had to be careful. If you plastered them ALL to your face you'd be too overt, if you placed just one or two, too bleh. You needed to be Goldilocks and and find the amount that was "just right".
These small decorative patches went out of style along the same time that the smallpox vaccine became widely available and administered which was roughly in 1798. Although those "beauty marks" fell out of fashion, recently jewels, stickers, and face jewelry have become more wide spread. After knowing origins of these patches one can't help being reminded of it when they see the odd holographic face sticker.  
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18th Century fabric patches or "beauty marks" from the Wellcome Library, London
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This box held rouge and "beauty marks" for its owner ca. 1750 -Met Museum Online Collection
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These modern "beauty marks" or face stickers can be purchased at many clothing or makeup stores.

Tuberculosis

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Portrait of a Girl-Ferdinand Georg Waldmuller 1840
In the Victorian era Tuberculosis (disease caused by bacteria that attack the lungs and is spread through the air) was an epidemic in Europe and the US. The disease was romanticized and many of their beauty standards emulated those with Tuberculosis. It was seen as feminine; brought about due to nervous sensibilities, and if you were beautiful you were predisposed to the disease! 
Victims were thin, "swan like" some references state. Thinness was achieved through long tight corsets that make the wearer thin, not curvy as later corsets did. Necklines were low to show off any thinness and any visible bones, especially shoulder blades. The almost translucent skin was mimicked by fashionable ladies paining on blue veins with "makeup".  Pale complexion was highly prized as were dilated eyes. (Some used deadly nightshade drops to make their eyes bigger. You can read about it here.) The nickname for the fashion was "consumptive chic" with tiny waists, lighter skin, and colored cheeks.
Smallpox and Tuberculosis are just two examples of how diseases have affected fashion throughout history. There are many other epidemics and illnesses that have changed the way we dress.  Maybe I'll research a few more in the future for part 2 if I end up having to extend my social separation. Stay safe and healthy. Don't forget to was your hands!
References:
  • CDC.GOV
  • Smithsonian Magazine
  • Consumptive Chic by Carolyn A. Day
  • Survey of History Costume by Phillis G. Tortora and Keith Eubank
  • Collectors Weekly
  • Why'd They Wear That? by Sarah Albee
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